The last time Feroz and I were in the Blue Mountains back in 2017, we had then already set our eyes on doing this route – Hotel California, 355m and 10 pitches. A 4-star megaclassic known as the longest sport multipitch in Australia.

Our main worry 2 years ago was with the first pitch of Hotel Cali. It was 45m long and described as a stiff and sustained grade 22 (6c/+). Some even swear its a 23 (6c+/7a). To have a better understanding of what 45m of the Australian grade of 22 felt like, we did a 3 pitch multipitch named “Subliminal” with a second pitch consisting 45 to 50m of sustained grade 22. We were destroyed after that pitch and decided it was best to save Hotel California for the next time we return when we’re physically ready.

We’re finally back in the Blue Mountains 2 years later to continue where we left off. We knew that 10 pitches required us to move fast and efficiently. 10 minutes wasted on each pitch would mean spending an extra 2 hours on the wall. And because daylight is short during winter (sunset at 5:20pm), that gave us even more of a reason to move fast!

We started the drive at 6am, cold and dark, and started our long approach to the base of the climb at 6:45am. Seeing first light hit the orange sandstone in such a beautiful place was truly indescribable. Photos do not do justice.

The thing with many multipitches here in the Blue Mountains, its opposite from the norm in the sense that you rappel first into the valley and then climb back out. Its extremely committing because after pulling your rappel ropes, the only way out is up! Despite feeling confident of our climbing ability, one thing that Feroz and I learnt from experience was never to underestimate a multipitch regardless how easy or how many times we’ve done it. So we made sure to bring plenty of water, food, climbing rescue equipment, and even brought emergency supplies like our pocketknifes, lighters, headlamps and emergency blankets in the unfortunate event we had to be benighted on the wall.

The entire approach consisted a walk, 2x50m rappels and more walking to the base of the climb. Took us a total of 2 hours (got abit lost for awhile trying to find the climb), and I started up the first pitch at exactly 8:50am.

10m runout to the first bolt climbing up a pinnacle, followed by sustained 6c+/7a climbing from then for the next 35m through rooflets, slopey crimps, and bad feet. Even with a half rope system to minimize the rope drag, the drag towards the top of the climb was quite substantial due to the pitch’s meandering nature! I pumped out at about 3/4 of the climb and and clipped on my PAS for a short rest. It was that or risk falling and having to prussik back up. After unclipping my PAS, I climbed slowly though the last tricky section and gained the pitch 1 hanging belay. Feroz soon joined me at the belay and morale was high then. We had just finished the crux pitch!! Now only 9 pitches to go!!!!… (cries)

Second pitch was led by Feroz, a technical 20 (6b) up a friction groove. I kid not when i say that in the blue mountains, gradings are crazy stiff. The moves would have been at least 6b+/c at onsight! But after the tricky bit, Feroz cruised up the last 1/3 of the pitch to gain the anchors. Pitches 3, 4 and 5 went by smoothly and i could clearly remember Feroz saying as he seconded up pitch 3, “Bro if only all the pitches were like that!”

We reached pitch 5 anchors at noon! We were in good time. After a short rest and lunch, at 12:30pm feroz pushed on for the famous traverse pitch 6, the MONEY PITCH!

Pitch 6 was 50m long, with 25m of straight horizontal traverse and another 25m of climbing diagonally up and right. The runout on the traverse was easily about 4m. Fall on the traverse and you would need to prussik back up as youd be hanging in free space! Positive handholds, good footholds and EXPOSURE TO DIE FOR! Seconding pitch 6 was exhilirating as well as the second was no less at risk of taking pendulum falls compared to the leader!

I soon joined feroz at pitch 6 anchors, looked up and saw pitch 7 anchors in the sun. Sweet warm sun! We havent had sun the entire day. The previous pitches were all in the shade. I chalked up and pushed on. About 30m and a few big moves later and i was enjoying the warmth of the sun! Feroz joined soon after and we took a few minutes to bask in the warmth, snap some photos, and enjoy gorgeous views of the Grose Valley!

Pitch 8 anchors was a comfortable spot under a cave! We knew we were left with 2 pitches, a scramble and a grade 16. Because we were making good time, we had another quick break and thought it might have been fun to videocall the third musketeer from the Krabi multipitch dream team! Video calling was something Nellis and I first did to Feroz when we topped a multipitch in Blueis back in 2018. I guess the tradition carried on!

2 pitches later and we were sitting at the top of Hotel Cali overlooking the entire Grose Valley. Total time elapsed, 6 hours 40 mins! Morale was at an all time high! We had just accomplished yet another one of our major climbing goals! Happy and humbled by the amazing face climbing in a beautiful place. Perhaps that was why the first ascensionists named it Hotel California; such a lovely place, such a lovely face.

Taking a break from multipitching today, time to get out and get on some hard sport climbs! Stay tuned for more adventres!!!